Last night I made a meatloaf of ground turkey, spinach, mushrooms, and mozzarella cheese from a recipe I found that my mom had printed out some time ago. I looked over the list of ingredients and deemed it within my interest zone and a way to use up the frozen spinach I've had in the freezer for a few years after making a cake with spinach in it (it came out a nice green) due to seeing it made in an episode of Ojamajo Doremi #, if I remember right.
It was some sort of stuffed turkey meatloaf (Murkey Teetloaf?) and it had been the first one in a while that I made, because the last one I made disappeared so quickly it made me mad.
I was still working or something when I made it (a ground beef variety, likely from a box dinner thing when they were still being made) and Mom and I had it for supper one night. Being a guy, if there's one thing I like, it's cold meat loaf sandwiches the day after. The ketchup is already on the thing - just cut a slice, slap it between 2 slices of bread, and deliciousness is granted.
Only the last time I made it, it was on a Friday night, which means on Saturday there would be left overs or something. Either I left for work or went off to do some sort of thing on that Saturday. Mom had her helping hands ladies coming in to help her with things, and I guess her lady that Saturday helped her with lunch.
Now, I have no idea what the exact details ensued about this lunch, but I imagine that Mom asked for lunch, probably with "a piece of the leftover meatloaf" or something.
Here's where I get angry. THERE WAS HALF OF THE MEATLOAF LEFT. HALF - Not A Piece. Most sane people would call it a SLICE. Most people would CUT A SLICE FROM LEFTOVER MEATLOAF - Much like the way people CUT SLICES FROM A LOAF OF BREAD.
SO ANYWAY - My mom likely asked for a Meatloaf Sandwich, comprising of SAID PIECE OF MEATLOAF and bread. The lady who helped her that day SERVED UP THE ENTIRE REMAINING HALF OF THE MEATLOAF. Apparently, that's a Piece of Meatloaf to her. MY MOM SAID NOTHING. She could have spoken up like "Uh, that's half of the meatloaf. Not a piece (slice)." BUT NO. SHE SAID NOTHING.
I get home from whatever, mouth expecting the deliciousness of a cold meatloaf sandwich - and there's nothing. It's GONE. IT'S JUST FUCKING GONE!!! Mom made no qualms about it, and it took more than a few minutes of loud ranting to find out what the fucking hell happened.
Needless to say, I didn't make another meatloaf for mom since that happened. And if I had, I resolved to at least SLICE UP THE DAMN MEATLOAF AND FREEZE SOME OF IT.
So making the stuff murkey teatloaf last night still made me think of that and rage. At least this time, nobody's serving up an entire half of it.
Monday, August 04, 2014
Tuesday, July 22, 2014
Internet On again!
I don't know what knocked out the cable modem, but someone did a little magical checking of things and it's back on. Yay!
Internet Out!
Internet modem not getting a connection. Looks like it'll be out for 2 days until a tech can get out here.
Saturday, July 19, 2014
Uninspired lack of updates gets some motivation
So what happened during the Month of May and June? Well, I gave up trying to figure out which other capacitors in Mom's Magnavox MX 36 inch CRT still need replacing, which in all equalness would likely end up meaning I needed to find another part to replace, something other than a capacitor. As my luck would have it, at the beginning of May, some electric company line workers came to the door to let me know they would be shutting off the power towards my end (and the house in turn) for about 15 minutes while they worked on the transformer on the pole. My only thought was "My Mom's TV won't survive being off for that long..." even though I've been woken up in the middle of the night due to a storm-induced power outage, pleading for the electricity to recover some hit points and come back. Which it did.
This time, I wasn't that lucky. The MX wouldn't turn on long enough to stay on. So like back in February, I got on Craigslist, and unfortunately the other 36 inch CRT TVs I had seen weren't on there anymore. I had to settle for a 32 inch Magnavox TV for a pittance. Let's summarize it this way: I'm not ready for a widescreen LED or LCD or whatever TV just yet, and I'm not in that financial league to afford one anyway.
This TV had been stored away for a while, unused. It's compatible with my current Magnavox remotes, so that was a big plus. It is also 4 years newer than my mother's TV, so it lacked some features I will miss, and some we used for an all too brief time. Picture in Picture was nice. The Over the Air Digital TV Guide stuff was neat, but since the switch to digital TV, is now sorely obsolete, which is a shame. I had finally figured out how to set the ZIP code so it would get the right program info to display.
At least now if I should happen to want a 36 inch TV, my Exploder has enough room for it. And it's best to transport a TV with the picture tube facing towards the back seat and across the width of the vehicle. Otherwise it'll flip over to the face of the tube as soon as you make a left or right turn.
There were several times during the month of June I felt like posting an update, but for some reason I felt it not that important. Maybe there's something to copypasta from my Foosebook postings. Oh well.
The main reason I felt like writing something was discovering how to soft-cook or it could even be called poaching an egg in the microwave.
You need:
1. Egg
1 Tupperware plastic hamburger keeper (sold in sets with the press handle)
1 slightly bigger thingy to put over the keeper
Break the egg into the keeper. Do not stir or scramble. Instead, quickly puncture the yolk. Bonus points if it doesn't begin immediately to leak out. I like some pepper on my egg, so season with pepper as you like.
Carefully place into microwave. Hopefully you have a turntable. Cover with the slightly bigger thingy. You want to keep whatever steam is released during the cooking time in with the egg so it doesn't dry out.
Here's the tricky part. I have no idea what power level the microwave beams its energy into the cooking area, but suffice to say this. I set it to cook the first time for 11 seconds, then lift the cover to see if the white of the egg has begun to coagulate due to the cooking energy. The edges should have cooked first. After inspection, cook for another 11 seconds. More of the white should now be cooked. Then I cook for another 11 seconds.
Now at this point, you could have all the egg white having cooked and turned white and the egg yolk yellow is no longer visible. It could be only slightly jiggly at this point but somewhat hot. IE you have a "cloudy" egg and not Sunny Side Up. If So - You are done! I typically assemble into a sandwich with mayo and cheese on one side, and the egg, carefully pried out of the burger keeper thingy and laid face down on the other slice of bread. The yolk is sufficiently cooked but still a bit liquid. Sometimes I can get it to just creamy but not solid. I've yet to have a problem with getting sick, so take that as you want.
If the egg is still Sunny Side Up and jiggly, cook for about 9 to 10 more seconds for a 4th time. I've tried blasting the egg straight through in one go, but I ended up with a bit of uncooked egg white in the middle somewhere. Doing it in short bursts appears to work best.
So there you have it. My version of poaching an egg in the microwave.
This time, I wasn't that lucky. The MX wouldn't turn on long enough to stay on. So like back in February, I got on Craigslist, and unfortunately the other 36 inch CRT TVs I had seen weren't on there anymore. I had to settle for a 32 inch Magnavox TV for a pittance. Let's summarize it this way: I'm not ready for a widescreen LED or LCD or whatever TV just yet, and I'm not in that financial league to afford one anyway.
This TV had been stored away for a while, unused. It's compatible with my current Magnavox remotes, so that was a big plus. It is also 4 years newer than my mother's TV, so it lacked some features I will miss, and some we used for an all too brief time. Picture in Picture was nice. The Over the Air Digital TV Guide stuff was neat, but since the switch to digital TV, is now sorely obsolete, which is a shame. I had finally figured out how to set the ZIP code so it would get the right program info to display.
At least now if I should happen to want a 36 inch TV, my Exploder has enough room for it. And it's best to transport a TV with the picture tube facing towards the back seat and across the width of the vehicle. Otherwise it'll flip over to the face of the tube as soon as you make a left or right turn.
There were several times during the month of June I felt like posting an update, but for some reason I felt it not that important. Maybe there's something to copypasta from my Foosebook postings. Oh well.
The main reason I felt like writing something was discovering how to soft-cook or it could even be called poaching an egg in the microwave.
You need:
1. Egg
1 Tupperware plastic hamburger keeper (sold in sets with the press handle)
1 slightly bigger thingy to put over the keeper
Break the egg into the keeper. Do not stir or scramble. Instead, quickly puncture the yolk. Bonus points if it doesn't begin immediately to leak out. I like some pepper on my egg, so season with pepper as you like.
Carefully place into microwave. Hopefully you have a turntable. Cover with the slightly bigger thingy. You want to keep whatever steam is released during the cooking time in with the egg so it doesn't dry out.
Here's the tricky part. I have no idea what power level the microwave beams its energy into the cooking area, but suffice to say this. I set it to cook the first time for 11 seconds, then lift the cover to see if the white of the egg has begun to coagulate due to the cooking energy. The edges should have cooked first. After inspection, cook for another 11 seconds. More of the white should now be cooked. Then I cook for another 11 seconds.
Now at this point, you could have all the egg white having cooked and turned white and the egg yolk yellow is no longer visible. It could be only slightly jiggly at this point but somewhat hot. IE you have a "cloudy" egg and not Sunny Side Up. If So - You are done! I typically assemble into a sandwich with mayo and cheese on one side, and the egg, carefully pried out of the burger keeper thingy and laid face down on the other slice of bread. The yolk is sufficiently cooked but still a bit liquid. Sometimes I can get it to just creamy but not solid. I've yet to have a problem with getting sick, so take that as you want.
If the egg is still Sunny Side Up and jiggly, cook for about 9 to 10 more seconds for a 4th time. I've tried blasting the egg straight through in one go, but I ended up with a bit of uncooked egg white in the middle somewhere. Doing it in short bursts appears to work best.
So there you have it. My version of poaching an egg in the microwave.
Tuesday, April 22, 2014
The sort of shocking thing I didn't expect
Going through some of my burned DVDs and finding out that some, especially my older discs, have developed some sort of foggy residue on the data side. It wipes off with some spray cleaner and tissues (and air duster for the resulting detritus) and the disks still play. It may be due to the plastic chemical makeup for the cases used, as it affected all the different brands of media used in the cases. Some of my more recent cases and burns haven't yet shown signs of this odd fogging.
DVDs in cake boxes and the single slim trays don't appear to be affected at all.
At any rate, I finally found some place offering scratch protective adhesive inserts much like the one I got in the jewel case for my Sailor Moon 1st season BGM CD. I am of the opinion at this point that the fogging can be prevented by keeping the data side away from the plastic case.
I'll be getting more supplies to clean the other fogged DVDs. Even though the single slim trays are ideal, I like to label my discs with printed inserts. It's a tradeoff I'll have to figure out.
DVDs in cake boxes and the single slim trays don't appear to be affected at all.
At any rate, I finally found some place offering scratch protective adhesive inserts much like the one I got in the jewel case for my Sailor Moon 1st season BGM CD. I am of the opinion at this point that the fogging can be prevented by keeping the data side away from the plastic case.
I'll be getting more supplies to clean the other fogged DVDs. Even though the single slim trays are ideal, I like to label my discs with printed inserts. It's a tradeoff I'll have to figure out.
Friday, April 11, 2014
Various things and whatever (I'll come up with a title later)
Still trying to start up my computer services business. Right now I have a sick Win7 desktop that is going to get a HD clone and transplant, then I have to fix a corrupted user profile. The HD going bad likely was the cause of that and I have 2 ways to get that user profile to work again. If I just restored the profile without a new drive, it would just go bad again.At any rate, IT'S MY FIRST NON-FAMILY, NON-FRIEND CUSTOMER!! Yay.
I still have a little work to do on the laptop I've been working on. The parts got here and the flux pen did its magic on the one broken off post I wanted to re-attach. Now to get the energy to remove the varistor, clean up the area and work on getting the new varistor fluxed and tacked in place. I have the thermal transfer stuff for the heat sinks. I truly hope after the time I spent on this laptop that it still works.
I need to get another O ring for the DVD drive I was handed to work on because the size of the one I got in the first place doesn't offer enough grip for the motor and mechanics to disengage the magnetic disk clamp from the top of the drive housing. So it needs to be smaller.
And then the power supply board for a DVD player a friend dropped off got the capacitors replaced (the originals had leaked everywhere) and I have to check more of it because when I put it back in place, the player wouldn't turn on. So I missed something though I'm sure the capacitors were installed and soldered in correctly (they're polarized electrolytic caps). It started out not being able to eject the DVD... I was hoping that the problem was with the power supply board and fixing that would help. One problem at a time.
But I'm more excited about a Flash Video file I was able to grab. It came with closed captioned subtitles. At first I thought I wasn't going to be able to grab the data for it, but I found the link for that data. A simple Java application turns it into an SRT file, and then I was able to turn that into a stylized subtitle file. Subs, got.
The video file was more of a pain in the butt. VLC played the video just fine, but conversion to AVI with one tool I like resulted in the video playing too slowly and got out of sync with the audio but somehow the subtitles remained in sync with the audio. Odd. I ran it twice before trying something else, after making darn sure I told it what I wanted it to do.
So I used another tool and got a raw MP4 from the original file, but that tool saw it necessary to insert 70ms gaps in the audio it converted, so the later parts of the conversion played out of sync with each other. But I was able to convert that to a subbed AVI where the subs were in sync with the video. I figured I'd do what I've done before - grab the audio from the original file as an MP3, remux with Virtual Dub and it would fix the problem with the audio - Which It Did!
So now that I can make a final subbed video with everything where it's supposed to be, I will spend some time fixing up the subtitle file. I got to about the 36 minute mark and ran into something that needs another style defined. By that point, I was too tired to continue, so I'll finish that soon but not now.
I still have a little work to do on the laptop I've been working on. The parts got here and the flux pen did its magic on the one broken off post I wanted to re-attach. Now to get the energy to remove the varistor, clean up the area and work on getting the new varistor fluxed and tacked in place. I have the thermal transfer stuff for the heat sinks. I truly hope after the time I spent on this laptop that it still works.
I need to get another O ring for the DVD drive I was handed to work on because the size of the one I got in the first place doesn't offer enough grip for the motor and mechanics to disengage the magnetic disk clamp from the top of the drive housing. So it needs to be smaller.
And then the power supply board for a DVD player a friend dropped off got the capacitors replaced (the originals had leaked everywhere) and I have to check more of it because when I put it back in place, the player wouldn't turn on. So I missed something though I'm sure the capacitors were installed and soldered in correctly (they're polarized electrolytic caps). It started out not being able to eject the DVD... I was hoping that the problem was with the power supply board and fixing that would help. One problem at a time.
But I'm more excited about a Flash Video file I was able to grab. It came with closed captioned subtitles. At first I thought I wasn't going to be able to grab the data for it, but I found the link for that data. A simple Java application turns it into an SRT file, and then I was able to turn that into a stylized subtitle file. Subs, got.
The video file was more of a pain in the butt. VLC played the video just fine, but conversion to AVI with one tool I like resulted in the video playing too slowly and got out of sync with the audio but somehow the subtitles remained in sync with the audio. Odd. I ran it twice before trying something else, after making darn sure I told it what I wanted it to do.
So I used another tool and got a raw MP4 from the original file, but that tool saw it necessary to insert 70ms gaps in the audio it converted, so the later parts of the conversion played out of sync with each other. But I was able to convert that to a subbed AVI where the subs were in sync with the video. I figured I'd do what I've done before - grab the audio from the original file as an MP3, remux with Virtual Dub and it would fix the problem with the audio - Which It Did!
So now that I can make a final subbed video with everything where it's supposed to be, I will spend some time fixing up the subtitle file. I got to about the 36 minute mark and ran into something that needs another style defined. By that point, I was too tired to continue, so I'll finish that soon but not now.
Wednesday, March 12, 2014
I might be able to fix this, too.
Working on my 2nd laptop so far. It's a Dell Inspiron 2200 found in the
trash. With a replacement power supply and a DVD ROM drive put in that was found with it, it powers on and the
screen is good.
Today the replacement hard drive arrived, and so I plunked it in and let Windows XP Home Edition do something with it. The BIOS saw it and knew the capacity (40GB). So I let the installer format the drive. It gets to 86% and then the power drops dead.
Problem: I knew the DC power jack was loose, so this was no surprise as it finally got warm enough with a hard drive in to affect the thermal expansion properties of loose power jacks. So I decided that I'll get the thermal grease later - I want at that damn power jack! So I get it apart and the last step - getting the motherboard out - was stumping me. The Internet Archive kept a copy of the Dell service manual for the 2200, and wouldn't you know it - one glance at it, then back to the motherboard and it lifted right out!
And the culprit - nearly no solder on any of the power jack bits on the circuit board! I also saw one other bit that broke off and will fix that, too. Now to remedy this and get it back together to the point just before putting all the heat sinks on it so I can get Arctic Silver on it.
I want to see this machine work.
Today the replacement hard drive arrived, and so I plunked it in and let Windows XP Home Edition do something with it. The BIOS saw it and knew the capacity (40GB). So I let the installer format the drive. It gets to 86% and then the power drops dead.
Problem: I knew the DC power jack was loose, so this was no surprise as it finally got warm enough with a hard drive in to affect the thermal expansion properties of loose power jacks. So I decided that I'll get the thermal grease later - I want at that damn power jack! So I get it apart and the last step - getting the motherboard out - was stumping me. The Internet Archive kept a copy of the Dell service manual for the 2200, and wouldn't you know it - one glance at it, then back to the motherboard and it lifted right out!
And the culprit - nearly no solder on any of the power jack bits on the circuit board! I also saw one other bit that broke off and will fix that, too. Now to remedy this and get it back together to the point just before putting all the heat sinks on it so I can get Arctic Silver on it.
I want to see this machine work.
Monday, February 17, 2014
Fixing it looks pretty good right now
I STILL CAN'T BELIEVE IT TURNED ON AGAIN!And all I changed (so far) was a single capacitor.

I had done extensive reading to determine what was wrong, and many times a 100uf 200V capacitor next to a transformer would be a good place to start. I bought one off Mouser.com because Radio Shack didn't have the part in a local store (as usual) and the price on Mouser was excellent.
At least I managed to save Mom's TV, for now anyway.
Friday, February 07, 2014
Fix it or replace it?
So for the past so many months or so, I've left the Magnavox MX big screen on all the time due to the last time the electric went out and I had a hell of a time trying to get it to turn back on. And wouldn't you know it, the generally fucking unreliable Ohio Edison managed to drop power for about 4 minutes last night and the TV was off and unwilling to stay turned on this morning when I got up. It does its click, light up the green LED for half a second, click back off, and a "thub" sound from the speakers when I try to turn it on. The backup supply that listens to remote signals is working, it just isn't staying on.
I realize this thing is 18 years old, but it still works fine. Well, the picture was just fine. I still want a big screen tube-type TV. Extensive research online yielded info in that the TV has some stupid circuit protection feature. It's supposed to protect the unit in case of over voltage conditions, but in this case, it's an under-voltage condition. I've strongly suspected a capacitor (or 3) that have aged and are off their measured values as capacitance is concerned.
There's one by the high voltage transformer in the power section. Lots of notes that turn up specify this very capacitor's uf and voltage rating, and this is certainly in that spot. I wish I could find precise schematic and service manuals for free on the web.
"Why don't you replace it with a flat screen?" I really don't have the kind of money that a flat-screen TV requires and I'd like to avoid putting one on a credit card. I want something with composite video input and there's no guarantee the model I'd want for my price range would have that.
As it is, I could find suitably sized tube-type big screens on Craigslist or perhaps local pawnshops, having found a couple of candidate TVs online. One of them is 5 years newer than this one. The prices aren't so bad either. It just requires a fair bit of driving to get them and the needed muscle to get it inside and placed.
The parts I need, should I need more than one capacitor, run from $2 to about $20 or so. It seems televisions, even the newer flat screens, all get power supply problems and capacitors usually are the components that go bad because the manufacturers use cheap ass capacitors with shoddy formulations. And in some cases, they just dry out for some reason. I'm trying to avoid thinking about other components that I've seen replaced in some videos I watched online.
Fix it or replace it? Both options are available. I'm going to try fixing first, then when it's not so cold and static-electric prone, re-check my replacement possibilities if that's too tricky.
I just wish things would stop breaking or dying around here.
I realize this thing is 18 years old, but it still works fine. Well, the picture was just fine. I still want a big screen tube-type TV. Extensive research online yielded info in that the TV has some stupid circuit protection feature. It's supposed to protect the unit in case of over voltage conditions, but in this case, it's an under-voltage condition. I've strongly suspected a capacitor (or 3) that have aged and are off their measured values as capacitance is concerned.
There's one by the high voltage transformer in the power section. Lots of notes that turn up specify this very capacitor's uf and voltage rating, and this is certainly in that spot. I wish I could find precise schematic and service manuals for free on the web.
"Why don't you replace it with a flat screen?" I really don't have the kind of money that a flat-screen TV requires and I'd like to avoid putting one on a credit card. I want something with composite video input and there's no guarantee the model I'd want for my price range would have that.
As it is, I could find suitably sized tube-type big screens on Craigslist or perhaps local pawnshops, having found a couple of candidate TVs online. One of them is 5 years newer than this one. The prices aren't so bad either. It just requires a fair bit of driving to get them and the needed muscle to get it inside and placed.
The parts I need, should I need more than one capacitor, run from $2 to about $20 or so. It seems televisions, even the newer flat screens, all get power supply problems and capacitors usually are the components that go bad because the manufacturers use cheap ass capacitors with shoddy formulations. And in some cases, they just dry out for some reason. I'm trying to avoid thinking about other components that I've seen replaced in some videos I watched online.
Fix it or replace it? Both options are available. I'm going to try fixing first, then when it's not so cold and static-electric prone, re-check my replacement possibilities if that's too tricky.
I just wish things would stop breaking or dying around here.
Saturday, January 25, 2014
How to read Japanese 1.2mb formatted 3.5inch floppies
- Get some Japanese 1.2mb formatted floppies (Wedding Peach Screensaver, for example)
- Have a floppy drive that can read these floppies. For this purpose, I selected the TEAC FD-05PUB 3.5inch USB floppy drive since the Japanese company website explicitly says it can.
- Have a computer with a BIOS that understands and mentions such formatted floppies in the CMOS setup screen. Make sure the Administrator password is cleared or you'll not be able to change the floppy reading setting or enable reading 1.2MB floppies.
- If using Windows 98SE, find the drivers for the FD-05PUB. This drive exists in other designs, so my drivers came from an Imation website page.
- Copy driver files onto Win98SE hard drive, plug in USB floppy and have Win98SE find and install the driver.
- ?????
- Profit.