
Thousands of them!!
I got annoyed finally, and decided I would do something about it. And do
something I did. First part involved how I was going to get in there and
see what's going on. Turns out that was easier than I thought! There
were 3 screws holding the wood panel on to the back of the wall area
where the faucet knob thing is. Once I had that off, I had direct access
to the problem.
One note in passing: While we waited for an independent contractor to
re-pipe the house a couple of years ago, in the process of putting in
new pipes to our bathtub, he accidentally reversed the hot and cold
sides of the faucet. It's like he put the knob in upside down.
Anywho, got the panel off and I see the leak from the cold water supply
part. The contractor had re-piped it up to a point, but it should have
been redone throughout. PVC hooked to metal pipes that went into the
faucet.
I had bought Amazing Plumbing Goop at Lowe's. This was not a job for
that. I'll be getting my $4 back for that as soon as I can.
Instead, went to a local hardware store for a tube of their plumber's
epoxy putty. This is the same stuff hawked on TV as Mighty Putty, though
not as expensive and probably better than that cheap crap as seen on TV.
This was definitely a job for epoxy putty. Turned off the water, sanded
the bits I needed to sand, and dried and wiped everything off. I cut off
the bit I was going to use (about 1/3 of the stick I bought) and kneaded
it with rubber gloves on. It turned a uniform gray and got warm and
tacky, like the instructions said would happen.
Then I made sure to get in there and forcibly smashed that putty all
around the bit that was leaking. Hopefully it's not leaking on the hot
water side - I'm hoping that it's not, but I will see soon enough.
I'm letting it cure overnight. Some people have reported it not working
for them, some people said it worked just fine. It depends on how well
you prep the surfaces, how well you worked the putty, and other factors.
I'll be happy just to have stopped that damaging leak. The epoxy putty
seems to be doing what it claimed it would do. It's been around for a
long time, so apparently enough people have gotten it to work. Seemed to
stick to what I wanted it to stick to. We'll see!
1. 40 grams flour (wheat or whatever)
2. 50 cc dashi (fine powder dissolved dashi is OK)
3. Yamato Imo aka Japanese yam (potato) - a small amount
(Not sure what to tell you on that. I don't like yams, but I would
think you would peel and grate like a tablespoon of a yam if you like.)
4. 100 grams cabbage (cut small / shredded)
5. 1 Egg
6. tenkasu - as desired
I had to look up tenkasu. It's bits of crunchy deep fried flour dough.
The best way to describe it is the crumbs made when deep frying
batter-dipped fish at you-know-where, but failing having that on hand,
crispy rice cereal works as a good substitute! Or maybe any kind of
crispy unsweetened cereal that holds up. It's easy enough to make
anyway.
7. Red Ginger - as desired
8. Sliced Pork - as desired
Toppings - Aonori, bonito flakes, mayonaise, okonomiyaki sauce
1. Mix the first 3 ingredients together in a bowl. Fold in 4-7 and mix
well.
2. Arrange the meat nicely in the center of the bottom lid.
3. Pour batter over the meat, covering it completely.
4. Lock the upper lid on securely.
5. Cook in the microwave. Use these times as a guide in case your
microwave has a different power level, in which case your cooking time
will vary.
6 minutes in a 600 watt oven, or 6:30 in a 500 watt oven.
Remove when done, but flip the cookware over and put it back in the
oven. There'll be hot steam leaking out through gaps in the lid and will
turn into hot water droplets. Be careful not to burn yourself!
6. When ready, remove the upper lid. Top as you like in this order:
Mayonaise, Okonomiyaki sauce, and then with the aonori and bonito
flakes.
You can serve it on a plate or in the dish you cooked it in. I would say
be careful not to scratch the plastic as you cut and eat the okonomiyaki
if you do it that way.
And that's it. Daiso sells the okonomiyaki cookware on their website
from one of their California stores in packs of 5 for about $8 with
another $9 for UPS shipping, and is just the kind of thing you need when
you can't use an electric hot plate.
I think it was meant to read game CDs directly, because I was testing it
with a game disk image file, and after a few times, the emulator refused
to load the image. Thankfully I had written it out to a data DVD before
messing with the emulator, and it ran the image off that disk just fine.
I had trouble trying to exit the emulator. On the PSX one, you just hit
ESC and it bows out of the way gracefully. The Readme file for Yabause
says to hit Q, but it didn't work. So among the times I had it running
full screen and having to use the XP Task Manager to shut it down,
something corrupted the disk image file on the HD.
I recommend you set it up to run as a window, about 700x525, and then
burn your backup images to optical media when using it with Yabause.
Others I tried were SSF and Satourne. Because of the AMD Athlon
processor, SSF wouldn't work. I read elsewhere that a certain
instruction set needed to be supported for SSF to work and Athlon
processors don't do that. That doesn't mean SSF wouldn't load and run,
it did, I just didn't get far enough to see what it could do.
Satourne looked complicated, but needed plugins which I may look for so
that there are 2 options for a Sega Saturn emulator. That's because once
Yabause is set up, it writes out an INI file, and each time you run it
after that first time, it doesn't throw up a config box to let you set
certain things again unless you delete the INI file. That's OK if you
use optical media and have each game on a separate disk. But if you have
more than one disk image on the same disk, you have to do something with
the INI file.
CORRECTION: Dreamcast game disks are what is known as a Megabit disk. They have a
different format and layout from any other kind of CD sized disk, and
you need a Dreamcast unit to read them if you want to make an image to run
on your emulator, and people have worked on this a lot. If you try to
copy a Sega Dreamcast game disk in a regular PC CDrom drive, you will get
the CD track only, usually audio, and nothing else. A neat way for copy
prevention by most but the exceptionally dedicated. I don't know how
emulators on a computer will read those game disks, unless they are
using images obtained elsewhere.